How A New Generation Of Drinkers Is Embracing Cognac
Rémy Martin’s cellar master tells us why the French brandy is cool again
By Dudi Aureus
The reputation of cognac has come a long way from being an ‘old man’s drink’ to becoming one of the most popular brown spirits in the global market. And no one's more excited about this shift in the drinks scene than Baptiste Loiseau, the cellar master of the House of Rémy Martin, who took over the coveted position from Pierrette Trichet in 2014.
“Through education, people now understand the versatility of the brown spirit,” he tells Tatler Dining, adding that discerning drinkers are becoming more interested in its origin, terroir, aroma and how it’s made. And being one of the most storied French brandies to date, there’s so much to learn and explore.
That is why he takes the time to travel the world to educate drinkers about the nuances of the brown spirit and the best ways to enjoy it.
“It’s always a matter of preference,” he posits, confirming that in France they are breaking the rules and enjoying it in many different ways. Aside from serving it “la fine à l’eau”—a long tradition of mixing the spirit with drops of water to fully reveal its aromas—it can also be had with tonic water or ginger ale, a wedge of lime and ice.
For newbies, though, he recommends appreciating the drink’s complexities first based on the quality of the product. And the longer the ageing process, the more opulence you have in the blend. “Our XO range, for instance, you can have it neat in the beginning to discover its true potential before trying it on rocks to highlight the fruitiness and smoothness on the palate.”
MIX AND MATCH
Another popular way to enjoy cognac is by mixing it with cocktails, a trend that has been gaining steam in recent years. But Loiseau was quick to point out that it has been a long tradition in making these drinks, with cognac being the base of many high-end tipples like Sidecar and Cognac Old Fashioned for over a century.
“It’s a trend that’s coming back in the past five to 10 years, as more bartenders and mixologists are keen to rediscover it.” But of course, Rémy Martin isn’t making cognac for cocktails, rather the team follows the strict guidelines of making it and respecting the range that has been created by the previous cellar masters. These include the VSOP with fresh and vanilla notes, XO that’s more intense and opulent, and the US exclusive 1738 with more oaky nuances.
“My mission as cellar master is to recreate this tradition,” he lets on, saying that as long as the bartenders and mixologists understand and respect what they’re making, they’re free to play with it and get creative.
TRAINING GROUND
Not surprisingly, the House of Rémy Martin in 2016 launched a bartending academy, where 12 to 15 talented bartenders from around the world are invited to the Cognac region to learn more about the spirit. They get to explore the vineyards, talk to the winegrowers and cask makers, and spend time with Loiseau to taste the eaux-de-vie straight from the casks.
The experience culminates in a friendly cocktail making competition, where the bartenders get to showcase what they’ve learned. “When they go back to their countries, they can become new ambassadors of the house,” admits Loiseau, and that's one of the best ways to spread the good word about cognac.
This is the adapted version of the story which originally appeared on tatlersingapore.com.